If your skin is eczema-prone, you already read labels. You've learned to hunt for "fragrance-free" the way other people hunt for a sale. Here's the part it took us a while to learn, standing in the soap aisle with a bar in each hand: those two words on the front are the least useful thing on the package.
I'm Natalie. Kerri and I have been friends for thirty years, and we make soap by hand at one kitchen table in Chilliwack, BC. A lot of the women who write to us have eczema-prone skin, and this is what we tell them.
"Unscented" and "fragrance-free" don't mean the same thing
On most labels, fragrance-free means nothing was added to make the product smell like anything. Unscented often means the opposite of what you'd assume: a masking fragrance was added to cancel out the smell of the base. The bar smells like nothing because something was put in to make it smell like nothing.
The rules around those two words are loose, and brands use them the way that suits them. The only thing that settles it is the ingredient list. If you see "fragrance," "parfum," or "aroma" anywhere on it, there's fragrance in the bar, whatever the front says.
Fragrance is one variable. It isn't the big one.
This is the part that surprises people. Take the fragrance out of a commercial bar and you still have a commercial bar: sulfates or synthetic detergents, palm oil, and the glycerin pulled out and sold separately. That combination is what leaves skin tight and squeaky, scent or no scent. A fragrance-free bar built that way is a fragrance-free version of the same problem.
What reactive skin usually needs is a base that doesn't strip. Real soap, made cold-process from olive oil, keeps its glycerin. It rinses clean, and skin settles instead of pulling. Then fragrance becomes a choice you make, not a risk you're forced to take.
What we'd read for instead
- The first oil. Ours is olive, at 42%+ of the recipe. Olive oil soap is the old answer for reactive skin, and the reason is how it feels after the rinse.
- Palm oil. If it's on the list, the bar was built for cost and hardness first. None of ours contain it.
- Shea butter. Some skin reacts to it, and it hides in a lot of handmade bars. Almost every bar we make is shea-free; our three salt bars are the exception, and we say it on the page.
- Fragrance, and how much. When we scent a bar we use fragrance oil used lightly, enough to enjoy in the lather and never enough to overwhelm. When we don't, there's none. Not even a masking one.
- The cure. Every bar of ours cures a full 30 days. A properly cured bar is milder, harder, and lasts longer.
The two bars we hand people first
Olea, our unscented olive oil soap bar, is olive oil, aloe extract and distilled water, with nothing added for scent. It's a 120g bar with a low, creamy lather and no smell at all, the one we give to the woman who has "tried everything" and is tired of reading labels.
Serenity, our calendula soap for eczema-prone skin, is for the days you'd like a little scent without regretting it later. Whole calendula petals steep in olive oil for three months before that oil goes into the bar, and the lime leaf and dill fragrance is kept light, quieter than it sounds. Both bars are palm-free, shea-free and cold-process. Both rinse clean.
If you're not sure which one
The two-minute skin consult asks about your skin and how you feel about scent, then points you to a bar. The sensitive skin collection is every bar we make with reactive skin in mind, and every one of them is shea-free.
Not happy within 90 days? Full refund โ and keep the bar. One return in over 3,000 orders. Read the ingredient list on ours. It's short on purpose.
Want the bar with nothing added for scent?